The Desert Rat and I wish you all a very merry Christams and prosperous new Year. We are heading over to Scotland next week to spend it with the Rat's family, including our new little nephew who was born last week. We have lots of travel planned next year so stay posted for more musings in the Camel Diaries. Needless to say, my new years resolution is to be a little more regualar with posting our photos and stories, especially as there are a few people who (not so) gently remind me if they haven't seen anything new in the Diaries for a while!! I think my greatest challenge in keeping this resolution will be technology - our home internet connection had been steadily getting slower over the last few weeks and last night a storm has completely knocked out our phone line.
Anyway, we wish you much cheer for the festive season
Love from Sahara Gal and Desert Rat
xxxx
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Lest We Forget
Two ceremonies were held in Libya to commemorate Rememberance Day. On the Friday before the 11th, the Desert Rat had the opportunity to fly to Tobruk for the ceremony there. The special guest at that ceremony was Prince Andrew.
On the Friday after Rememberance Day, we both went to the ceremony at the Tripoli Commonwealth War Cemetry. I must say that both of us found it very moving - seeing the actual graves of the men and women who died really brought the futility of war home to us. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintains each of the war cemetries and both are very well kept. The Commission will also put wreaths and messages on individual graves on behalf of the families that can not do so themselves. We read a few messages which talked about how much the person buried here in North Africa was still very much missed by people back home some 60 odd years later. I must admit, both of us were a little choked at times, especially when we thought about how young these men were when they died. Some of the graves are for unknown soldiers and you can not but feel so terribly sad for them and their families who may have never known for sure where their loved ones ended their days.
Tobruk War Cemetry:
On the Friday after Rememberance Day, we both went to the ceremony at the Tripoli Commonwealth War Cemetry. I must say that both of us found it very moving - seeing the actual graves of the men and women who died really brought the futility of war home to us. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintains each of the war cemetries and both are very well kept. The Commission will also put wreaths and messages on individual graves on behalf of the families that can not do so themselves. We read a few messages which talked about how much the person buried here in North Africa was still very much missed by people back home some 60 odd years later. I must admit, both of us were a little choked at times, especially when we thought about how young these men were when they died. Some of the graves are for unknown soldiers and you can not but feel so terribly sad for them and their families who may have never known for sure where their loved ones ended their days. Tripoli War Cemetry:
Land of the Romans
About an hour east of Tripoli lies the ruins of a Roman town called Leptis Magna. It is one of 3 coastal towns that the Romans once inhabited. Thanks to it being covered by sand dunes over many hundreds of years, the town has been preserved and is now one of the major tourist destinations in Libya. The Desert Rat and I recently visited the site. It is quite amazing - firstly as it is so big - have a look on google maps - and secondly because of the detail. It was quite an important site in North Africa during Roman times.
Arch of Septimus Severus - he was a local boy done good. Septimus Severus was the first North African born Roman emperor.
Road at Leptis
Who reads Ancient Roman?
The most important part of town - the communal dunnies!!
The Theatre at Leptis
One of a series of faces found in the Forum
Wine Bar in the Forum (mmm.... wine!!)
Pillars in the bath area
Now I don't think the detail is too over the top - we are thinking of getting some carving done in the Camel House!!!
One of the most amazing things at the Leptis Magna site is a couple of kilometres out of the actual town (eastwards). The circus where they used to have the gladiator fights and which has been beautifully preserved and restored in part. We came in from the top and climbed down to the centre, where you can still see the trap doors in the floor and can walk through the tunnels from where they brought the wild animals. It was an amazing experience. You can see this on Google Maps too -
From
Sahara Gal!!
Friday, December 7, 2007
A Sahara Adventure
Hi Folks
Sorry it has been a while since we last posted stuff in The Camel Diaries but between exams, losing our phone line for a while and general business, it has been hard to find a moment to put some words down.
Anyway, enough excuses…
There are lots of things to write about since the last post from Malta. About a week after that trip, the Desert Rat and I headed down to the Fezzan region in southern Libya with some friends on a tour of the desert. If I had to describe the experience in one word, all I would need to say is AWESOME!
We flew from Tripoli to Sabha on the Thursday night after work. In the morning we got up and drove off in a line of 4 wheel drives. There were 4 cars all together – three carrying us and one kitchen car. There were eight of us, 4 drivers, a cook, a guide and a tourist policeman (you are not allowed to travel outside of the Tripoli area without an escort due to a few years ago some idiot tourists tried to leave the country carrying some rock art they had chiselled off the side of a cliff wall – cheers guys!).
The first stop was in Germa, to see an ancient town that has been there since at least the first century. All that is left are some mud brick walls that are eroding away but you can get a good feel for what it must have been like.
After Germa we continued our drive south-west and began our trip off-road into the desert. We camped each night – getting to the site before dark in time to pitch our tent. We were very spoilt in that each night the cook made us a hearty dinner and all we had to do was wait around to be served!! Our after dinner activities each night usually involved a scramble up a sand dune to watch the stars.
Each day after breakfast, we headed off – the drivers know the area like the back of their hand. How they knew which sand dune to turn at or which tyre tracks in the sand to follow, I will never know!!
One of the reasons that tourists are drawn to this are is the rock art. This can be paintings or carvings and archaeologists have determined that some are as old as 10,000 years. The pictures illustrate a time when the Fezzan area was a fertile savannah where wild animals roamed and people kept domesticated cattle. The Romans used to trade with the locals, buying the lions and tigers etc for the Gladiator fights. The art is found on the rock faces of the hills with the best ones sheltered from the elements. It is just amazing – most you can go right up to, though they seem to be now fencing some of the more important sites off to protect them from people touching them. Some examples of rock art:
A ledge on which we saw some rock art
Did I mention the scenery was spectacular?
Now, The Camel Diaries would be incomplete without some camels. We came across a few on this trip, both wild and tamed. For the adventurous folk out there, you can go on guided tours, leaving the cars behind and going on a camel instead.
Sorry it has been a while since we last posted stuff in The Camel Diaries but between exams, losing our phone line for a while and general business, it has been hard to find a moment to put some words down.
Anyway, enough excuses…
There are lots of things to write about since the last post from Malta. About a week after that trip, the Desert Rat and I headed down to the Fezzan region in southern Libya with some friends on a tour of the desert. If I had to describe the experience in one word, all I would need to say is AWESOME!
We flew from Tripoli to Sabha on the Thursday night after work. In the morning we got up and drove off in a line of 4 wheel drives. There were 4 cars all together – three carrying us and one kitchen car. There were eight of us, 4 drivers, a cook, a guide and a tourist policeman (you are not allowed to travel outside of the Tripoli area without an escort due to a few years ago some idiot tourists tried to leave the country carrying some rock art they had chiselled off the side of a cliff wall – cheers guys!).
The first stop was in Germa, to see an ancient town that has been there since at least the first century. All that is left are some mud brick walls that are eroding away but you can get a good feel for what it must have been like.
After Germa we continued our drive south-west and began our trip off-road into the desert. We camped each night – getting to the site before dark in time to pitch our tent. We were very spoilt in that each night the cook made us a hearty dinner and all we had to do was wait around to be served!! Our after dinner activities each night usually involved a scramble up a sand dune to watch the stars.
Each day after breakfast, we headed off – the drivers know the area like the back of their hand. How they knew which sand dune to turn at or which tyre tracks in the sand to follow, I will never know!!
One of the reasons that tourists are drawn to this are is the rock art. This can be paintings or carvings and archaeologists have determined that some are as old as 10,000 years. The pictures illustrate a time when the Fezzan area was a fertile savannah where wild animals roamed and people kept domesticated cattle. The Romans used to trade with the locals, buying the lions and tigers etc for the Gladiator fights. The art is found on the rock faces of the hills with the best ones sheltered from the elements. It is just amazing – most you can go right up to, though they seem to be now fencing some of the more important sites off to protect them from people touching them. Some examples of rock art:
A ledge on which we saw some rock artDid I mention the scenery was spectacular?
Now, The Camel Diaries would be incomplete without some camels. We came across a few on this trip, both wild and tamed. For the adventurous folk out there, you can go on guided tours, leaving the cars behind and going on a camel instead.
We spent some time in the Murzuq Sand Sea. You know how in primary school you learn about what a desert is, and pictures of massive sand dunes in the Sahara are shown. Well, this was it! I had to pinch myself a few times to remind myself that I really was in the Sahara Desert!!
On the second to last day we went into Wadi Methkandoush where the main rock carvings are. They show how animals such as elephants and rhinos, giraffes, monkeys and even crocodiles lived here once.
We then drove up to Ubari Sand Sea which is special as there is a series of lakes. One is fresh but the rest are extremely salty. They are all beautiful and there is a little community living there.
I hope these photos have given you some idea about how beautiful southern Libya is. The Desert Rat and I feel extremely privileged to have the opportunity to see such amazing sights.
Until next time....
Sahara Gal
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