Monday, June 9, 2008

Last Stop - Palermo

Our last stop of this trip before heading back to Tripoli was Palermo, the capital of Sicily. We only spent about 24 hours in the city (and another 8 in the airport, but that’s another story!!) but had a fantastic time.

Being in the Mafia heartland, we were disappointed not to see any gangsters, drive by shootings or other evidence of corruption but did notice numerous posters advertising meetings and activities encouraging people to participate in anti-Mafia action. It was a very cool city and we enjoyed wandering around, drinking espressos and taking it all in. Some of the highlights included:

Piazza Pretoria which contains a sixteenth century Florentine design fountain with lots of statues. We visited during the day and came back later at night as it is lit up and looks amazing!

Gold shoes – Sicilians seem to love a bit of bling, including jazzing up their shoes. How can you go wrong with gold running shoes!!
Santa Caterina Church – a Baroque church in which there is literally not one square inch of the interior that is not covered in decoration, carving or colour. It is truly a sensory overload. After seeing so many churches when we were in Spain a few years ago, I thought I had seen most things, but was completely unprepared for this one.
Across the plaza is San Cataldo Church – the antithesis of Santa Caterina – built in the 12th Century and rather plain compared to the exuberance of the Baroque church (church on the right with 'golf ball' roof').

Gelato – The Sicilians know how to make good gelato (and the Maltese for that matter), and we enjoyed quite a few icecream stops!
On our last morning in Sicily we went to the Capuchin Catacombes. The Catacombes originiated in the sixteenth century as they needed a burial place for monks. From 1599 until about 1881, preserved bodies of have been placed in here – some in coffins, some lying on shelves, some wired up to recesses in the wall so they appear to be standing up, all clothed in attire appropriate to the time and station in life, men, women and children. Up to 8000 bodies have been placed in here, although there was extensive damage in WW2 which has destroyed some of them. Words can not describe what it is like to walk through these corridors of the dead. It is eerie and overpowering – it doesn’t smell as such, and there are windows through which you can see daylight. However, it is the most bizarre experience. Photos weren’t allowed but if you go to http://images.google.com.au/ and type in 'Capuchin Catacombes' you can see a number of images.

Afterwards, the Desert Rat and I had to sit outside a while and take a little break and try and process what we had just seen. We felt quite somber as you can imagine and it wasn’t until a man in a little 3 wheel truck began waving to us when Johnny was taking a photo that our mood lightened up. The man pulled up and urged us to look at the back of the little truck, on which there was a tray laden with fresh fish. We took photos (see below), and then he got back in the truck and drove off, waving all the way. It really summed up the friendliness of the Sicilians we had met and really makes us want to explore Sicily and the rest of Italy further.

So, this is the last posting from our April/May travels. Here are just a few more shots of Palermo:


Until next time,

Sahara Gal

The Mighty Mt Etna

A trip to Sicily is not complete without going up the slopes of Mt Etna, especially if you are a geologist!! This proved to be quite challenging – the lady in the Tourist Information Office told us that the one bus that would take us to the where the cable car began left at 8.00am form the bus station. Fair enough we thought, not too hard. However, the bus station constituted a chaotic round about / parking system with no signs, no information office, no maps and no one speaking English. We did manage to get on the right bus by following other people that looked like tourists and we made our ascent up the mountain until we got to Refugio Sapienza where the road stopped. From there, we caught a cable car which took us further up the slope. As we got higher up, the weather changed quite considerably – Catania had been quite warm and sunny but by the time we got off the cable car, there was snow on the ground and we needed jackets and beanies!! The next leg of the journey was in special 4WD buses that take you further up the slope to where you can walk around, feel the heat underfoot, smell the sulpherous gases and see quite recent lava flows. There was a lot of steam, making the visibility quite poor at times.

We had more adventure as the bad weather meant that the cable cars were out of use by the time we wanted to come down – it was snowing by then. Thus we came back down to the Refugio level in the special buses. As we decreased altitude, the snow turned into hail and heavy rain. Eventually it cleared up again and we spent some time wandering around the tourist shops and drinking coffee before catching our bus back down to Catania.

Refugio Area

On the way up...

Snow buses

Now you can see Now you can't
Steam coming off the ground

Cooled Lava

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Markets in Catania

The Desert Rat and I love going to fresh produce markets so were in our element when we got to Catania in Sicily in time to wander through the open air markets. Here is what we found:























Then at around 1.00pm, all selling stops and within an hour or so everything is packed up and put away until next market day! We managed to find ourselves a superb seafood restaurant in the market and feasted on fresh fish and Sicilian wine to our hearts content!!



I'm off to have some lunch after all this!!!

Still to come...

Mt Etna and Palermo

Sahara Gal